I have no idea whether this will happen, but if it shakes I would reinforce the corners with acrylic gussets. For the HEVO these parameters border on being unconventional (its main objective was to be "rock-solid" and was originally designed for 3030s). Enclosure walls add rigidity to the machine. But, this is a discussion on the well-documented stock versions. Note that people have so heavily modified Vorons that they use smooth rods + bearings, and modified HEVOs so that they use rails and are enclosed. I can't really speak on V-Kings simply due to my lack of knowledge. The community is amazing and there are many mods. The documentation is not as good or formalized, but is still acceptable. The concepts used in the cable management and the enclosure are noteworthy. The "no-compromise" objective made it very refined. Although the Voron has significantly more parts, the documentation seems incredible. If cost and simplicity are not concerns I would go with the Voron. Differences lie in linear motion methodology (rails, smooth rods + bearings, rollers), price, refinement/simplicity, and community. You must make it clear to yourself what design choices you value and choose between trade-offs. I am certainly not experienced, but I can offer some thoughts. It also means the Voron is a lot better at printing tall thin things, as they are far less likely to topple during printing. The CoreXY has a lighter moving mass, so can print faster with fewer defects. expect faster speeds with an orbiter, and even faster ones with input shaping (word of caution, it's not magic, your dimensoins could mess up warp with excessive use, or use with bad printers (for example, my doot changer that has a wobbly rail.I am almost done building my first 3D printer-a modified HEVO. The Voron is a CoreXY printer, which means the head moves in XY rather than XZ like the Prusa. The average speeds people get are from what I see 2000 accel at 30-40 outside perimeters without input shaper and with a nema 17 pancake direct drive which is pretty decent. Curious to know peoples thoughts, thanks in advance Hmm, interesting. The Railcore has an interesting bed leveling system, whereas the Voron has a fixed bed and moving gantry. For me it’s between the Voron 2.1 and the Railcore 2. It's not like vorons are on another league, but they're a very decent choice so a lot go with them.Ĭompared to the printers outside the same price range (cheaper) they're WAY faster, more reliable (if you use decent components, if not then nope it's a pain, i'm not talking 200$ hotends, just nothing crap like those no name clones!) and they're probably quieter too.Īlso the Klipper firmware the default option (you can add it to any printer tho) is very awesome in ways, but very annoying/bad in others, thankfully mostly great! I’m set on the CoreXY kinematic system but can’t choose which printer to go for. ratrig is awesome too (I love how they combine metal parts with FDM) etc and jubilee is a tool changer if you want that.
although it's very hard to assemble from what I heard and also has a really small build area (120x120x120, ther's a mod for 150x150x150 which makes more sense IMO honestly, i'd kill for 180x180x180 but you can probably make that one if you go with the mod, or make modifications?)īut honestly? there's a lot of good printers. Voron 0 is also small therefor fast/light. They are designed very well/smart and have amazing manuals. RAMPS board and loud A4988 drivers -Integrated Octoprint remote web control through Raspberry Pi -True 32 bit board with Klipper control. linear rods) -> less sag -AC heated bed (lower current to the bed, less load on the 24V power supply, quieter) -SKR 1.3 board with silent TMC2209 drivers vs. Vorons are nice printers if you have money (personally would recommend 1.8, to me 2.4 seems like a waste of money (sorry), but it depends on what you want!, the quad gantry only adds complication IMO) PCB bed) -> much flatter, consistent bed surface -Linear rails for XY (vs.
0 kommentar(er)
